Tag Archives: Passport

Dutch, Americans, and a Familiar Taxi Driver

The full-body scanner. Yes, it feels about as ridiculous as it looks. (Source: AP)

“Interesting,” said the Dutch security man, fingering my passport and flipping through the papers I had handed him moments before.

“Interesting,” he muttered again as he looked at the receipt for my stay at the American Institute for Yemeni Studies. I thought perhaps the American part of the name would balance out the Yemeni part. I guessed wrong. Apparently the Dutch use the word “interesting” like the rest of us use the words “highly suspicious.”

The Dutch man and I had been talking for about five minutes about who I was, what I was doing in Yemen, and who paid for it.

“Please wait here a moment,” he said, and stepped away to confirm with a more senior security man.

As they conferred, I tried to figure out what to do with my eyes, and finally just watched the passport scanner screen as passenger after passenger was checked in.

The scan of one man’s passport brought up a blinking display on the screen: “This person may be a selectee!” It said, as if he had just won an award.

Then I noticed both security men looking at me looking at the screen, and I looked away. The more senior man stepped up and round 2 of questions began.

How did I pay for the place I stayed? “By getting my own money out of the ATM?” I answered helplessly. His mouth twitched and I’m not sure if he was smiling or frowning.

Did I have anything in my bags that ran on batteries. Um, sure, laptop, camera, cell phone. Wow, I’m an idiot, I thought. They’ll detain me just because of my stupid answers.

Stupid answers, but good enough for him to finally wish me a nice flight and usher me into the full-body scanner prior to boarding the plane.

I was sure I was going to get detained upon arrival in the US. Everyone said so. I watched as the “selectee” from the Amsterdam boarding got a keen eye from the chubby US customs official, who called over the intercom — an invitation for a beefy uniformed man to stride over and ask the “selectee to follow him, sir.

I’m screwed, I thought.

The official looks at my passport, looks at me, then picks up the stamp and drives it home against the customs document.

“Welcome back,” he said.

Leave-leave-walk-now-before-you-say-something-stupid, my brain rattled.

In Fargo, North Dakota, USA, I stumbled off the plane, jet lag blurry, into the arms of family members who had waited an extra hour due to my plane being delayed. They had smiles, and hugs, and welcome home signs.

On the way out of the airport, at the bottom of the last escalator, stood one of my brothers-in-law, holding a sign with my name misspelled.

“Taxi? You need taxi?”

Yeah, I did.

Home, please, and step on it.

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Filed under Netherlands, North Dakota, USA, Yemen

Escape From Yemen

This is the last blog post I’ll write from my humble abode in Yemen. Within the hour I’m off to an iftar dinner, an end to today’s Ramadan fast, then to the airport and, hopefully, a flight home.

I don’t have a visa to be in Yemen and no real permission to leave. According to an US embassy official, I have a “better than not” chance Yemeni officials won’t let me board my flight to Cairo, no matter how much I beg and plead.

That begging and pleading has proved ineffective over the last several weeks of attempting to get a stop-gap visa, an adventure that turned into a tragic comedy of errors.

Snapshot: Me, leaning over a desk, jostling among a dozen Yemenis, Ethiopians and Sudanese, waving our papers in front of a small, impassive immigration police general who sits behind a large, brown desk. He glances at our papers, a brief flicker of interest, then a slow stamp-stamp-stamp of approval as he plays whack-a-mole with our lives. I notice four calendars on his desk, and only one is set to the right year and month.

Best case scenario? I’m waved aboard my flight without so much as a second look.

Worst case scenario? “A night in immigration jail,” said the embassy official. “Neither of us want that.”

Most likely/hopeful scenario? I’ll hem and haw, sweet-talk and yell, call in my favors, wave my papers, and cough up some cash — then get aboard my flight.

I’m betting that I’ll beat the embassy official’s “better than not” chance at not making the flight. I’m loaded with official papers with official signatures and official stamps  proving I lived in a reputable place in Yemen, doing reputable work, and nearly gained a reputable visa.

I have contacts in Yemen who can bully, bluster, cajole, grease wheels and raise hell. I’ve got the emergency number to the US embassy watch officer dialed into my cell phone. I’ve got other numbers for stateside contacts who can make their own phone calls.

But best of all, I’m bringing a wad of Yemeni rials and a tidy stack of $100 bills.  Never underestimate the power of Benjamin Franklin.

The thing that gives me the most confidence is the small laugh I hear within myself when I worry about tonight. It ‘ll be unpredictable, could get messy and there are so many unknowns.  Yet it feels right for me to leave tonight, and I laugh to realize I really do believe everyone feels the same way, even if I’ll have to convince them.

When you hear from me next, I’ll be in Cairo, or Amsterdam, or the US. I won’t be here.

It’s time to go.

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Filed under Egypt, Yemen